Around the World

After we had breakfast with Grant we went to Mossman Gorge in the Daintree National Park. The weather was perfect for the 2.7 km walk to took through the rain forest We saw some trees, strangler fig, birds nest, ferns, and a Buff-breasted paradise kingfisher. We walked across swinging bridges. The park consists of two sections, with a settled agricultural area between them which includes the towns of Mossman and Daintree Village. Much of the national park is covered by rainforest. The Greater Daintree Rainforest has existed continuously for more than 110 million years, making it possibly the oldest existing rainforest. The popular Mossman Gorge is located in the southern part of the park. Cape Tribulation also lies in the park.

After lunch we went for a swim in the Mossman river. In the water we saw some jungle perch and an eel. That evening we ran the Mossman Hash with about 7 guys. We ran across a creek, through fields of sugar cane and along a cane train track. After we had our down downs with the Hash House Harriers we came home and crashed.

We went into town for some shopping. I got a pair of swim shorts and went to the post office. Donna went to the dentist to have her toothache checked out. Afterwards we took some air mattresses to Mossman River and rafted down 2 times. It was fun to float through a rain forest and bounce through the rapids. I only had one leech on my arm and saw a Kingfisher. The water was cold and clear. Grant and I used our cars to shuttle between the launch point and landing site. We went for some meat pies in town after our river adventure.

Mossman is a town of 1700 people on the Mossman River. Mossman is the administrative center of the Douglas Shire, a local government area that includes the tourist resort of Port Douglas 20 km to the south. and Mossman Gorge. Sugar cane farming is an important aspect of the local economy, with Mossman Central Mill, the only sugar mill in the district, processing the cane before sending it to Cairns for shipping domestically and internationally.

We returned the rental car in Cairns. It was a one way car rental from Brisbane to Cairns. It cost $227 AUD for 8 days. We had a look around some shops in Cairns. I bought some little tiny books about Australia. Grant drove us up to Kuranda. We walked around town and looked at the markets. I got a wood aboriginal sculpture.

Kuranda is a town of 650 people on the Atherton Tableland and is surrounded by rainforest. Attractions in the town include a regular market, consisting of a range of arts and crafts stalls as well as restaurants. Kuranda is a major centre for opals and didgeridoos. It was also the first home of the Tjapukai Indigenous Dance Theatre, established by former New Yorkers Judy and Don Freeman, together with indigenous dancer and actor, David Hudson. The theatre is now located adjacent the Skyrail base station at Caravonica. Kuranda is home to a bird park, butterfly sanctuary, a bat rehabilitation centre, snake and venom park and koala sanctuary. As mentioned, the town is surrounded by rainforest rich in wildlife, with numerous walks and lookouts, such as to the Barron Falls. We had a look at Barron Falls, just a little water flowing over it at this time of year.

On the way back we shopped at Kmart. We also went to Port Douglas and saw the lookout, marina, and walked down the main street. We then got some Fosters beer and went back to Grant's place.

We got up early for the trip to Cape Tribulation. We took the ferry across the Daintree river and took the road to Cape Tribulation. It is paved now. Back when I drove it in 1993 it was a mud dirt track. We stopped at the lookout over the valley, saw the information center and then arrived to Thorton beach. The place I camped before was closed now. We took a walk on a raised wooden walkway through the rain forest and mangrove. I took some good photos of trees and strangler figs. We went up to Cape Tribulation and ate lunch. We took a walk on the beach to the fringing reef. It was another perfect day out. We went for a swim in a river next to a store in Cape Tribulation. We met a girl from Sweden and one from England. We stopped in Daintree village on the way back to Grant's place.

We drove back on the northern end of the Cook Highway. The Reef and Rainforest Coast is one of the only places in the world where one can experience such a variety of different environments. Tropical rainforest, reef and rugged outback exist virtually side by side and each is easily accessible.

Eighty per cent of the Port Douglas Shire is included in the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, which covers nearly 90,000 hectares between Townsville and Cooktown and includes the Daintree and Cape Tribulation National Parks. The Great Barrier Reef is only 12 miles due east from Cape Tribulation

We drove down the highway to the crocodile farm. There was a huge croc in the front made out of fiberglass. There were many saltwater crocs of all sizes and a pen full of freshwater crocs. There was a Cassowary that was jumping really high. I hand fed him. The park guides gave informative talks about the animals. I was able to pet a koala and a dingo. There was also an exhibit of snakes. The most exciting show was the death roll. A trainer was able to get a huge croc to perform the death roll with some bait. During the display another croc snuck up on the trainer from behind and almost nicked him. We ate crocodile meat pies for lunch. There were also a few kangaroos and different types of birds on exhibit.

In 1934 a man known as "Pop Evans" established a road house named the Halfway House, at Hartley's Creek. The halfway House was a popular stop for motorists and groups traveling "White Cars" which was the first coach service between Cairns and Port Douglas. To entertain visitors, Pop Evans performed shows featuring local wildlife. In 1934 he acquired Charlie, the Saltwater (Estuarine) crocodile for his exhibitions. Charlie was caught in Brown's Bay near Cairns. During this time a few interesting stories developed concerning Charlie. One such tale tells how Charlie, attracted by the aroma of food from the kitchen, broke out from his enclosure and wandered up to join the family for dinner. His company at the table was not welcomed and he was led back to his pen with a tempting tit bit! Another time when Charlie was moved to his new enclosure, it took a piece of meat and a bottle of whiskey (the whiskey was not for Charlie!)

The Zillfleisch family purchased Hartley's Creek Zoo in the early 1960's. Gary Zillfleisch devoted himself to trying to save wild populations of crocodiles from the then legal trade of crocodile hunting. His studies attracted interest from scientists and media throughout the world. Documentaries produced at Hartley's Creek helped persuade the Queensland Government, in 1972, to legislate that crocodiles be a protected species. Until then, Gary had collected crocodiles from the wild to rescue them from hunters after their valuable skins.

The next notable owners of the "Halfway House" were the Waterhouse family. They expanded the zoo to cater for the growing tourist industry.

Charlie the Croc
Charlie has been a star attraction to hundreds of thousands of visitors to the Cairns region and is a household name. Grandparents who saw Charlie when they were children are now bringing there grandkids to see him! Charlie was awarded Queenslander of the Year for 1991 for his contribution to the community!

Charlie holds the record for the longest held crocodile in captivity. From photographs taken in the early 1930's he is estimated to be 70-80 years old. Crocodiles in captivity have been known to live to 120 years. Charlie may be old but he has plenty of life in him yet!

We walked around the marina at Port Douglas and hung out at 4 mile beach. Later in the day we went to Rainforest Habitat and had a look around. The town is named in honour of former Premier of Queensland, John Douglas. Port Douglas developed quickly based on the mining industry, other parts of the area were established with timber cutting occurring in the area surrounding the Daintree River and with settlement starting to occur on lots around the Mossman River by 1880. When the Kuranda Railway from Cairns to Kuranda was completed in 1891, the importance of Port Douglas dwindled along with its population. A cyclone in 1911 which demolished all but two buildings in the town also had a significant impact. At its nadir in 1960 the town, by then little more than a fishing village, had a population of 100. In the mid-1980's, tourism boomed in the region with the aid of the late Christopher Skase, an investor who financed the construction of the world-class Sheraton Mirage

That evening we relaxed at Grant's place and watched videos.

We went to the bowls club in Mossman. We joined the Hash guys in a game of bowls. I did pretty well for a first timer. I even hit the jack and got the shot. But after a 2 hour game my team lost, 9-16. I got caught with my hat on inside the pub. There's a rule against that kind of thing. I think they went easy on me since I was a foreigner.