Around the World

Got up early and walked to Luxemore Hotel to get my backpack. What a relief to get it back. My right heel began to hurt that morning.

We got packed up and went to the Fiordland visitor center and wildlife refuge. We saw an endangered Tekahoe bird. Got some supplies at the supermarket and went back to catch the bus at the center.

Then took the Tewara boat to the trail head. This boat has been used for ages, doing the same voyage of 2 hours. Most the trampers are in their middle ages, which surprised me. It is such an awesome day, clear and sunny. I was so relieved to be on the track the first day. I saw many beautiful views and sand flies. After posing at the railhead for a photo we hiked one kilometer to Glade House (this is where guided walkers stay the first night). Just past Glade House is the largest and the first of the nine suspension bridges we would be crossing. We continued on the track for about one hour, through attractive beech forest along the banks of the Clinton River, to the Clinton Hut. We walked around the wetland board walk after we put our things down.

I ate crackers, cheese and fruit rolls for breakfast. It was a gradual climb from Clinton Hut as the track follows the Clinton River to its source, Lake Mintaro, at the base of Mackinnon Pass. It passes through sections of forest and crosses many streams. We saw a river eel and Rainbow trout, and a Kia parrot. Walked under majestic cliffs with waterfalls cascading down. There were wild flowers in the valley. Took a photo of suspension bridge and flower field. An hour from Clinton Hut we reached the Clinton Forks. About 40 minutes further on was a large slip, which occurred in 1982, forming a lake behind it. Then in another 20 minutes we came to Hirere Falls. After the falls we get our first view of the Mackinnon Pass and the Pompolona ice field. We hiked another hour to the Bus Stop Shelter located just before the Marlenes Creek.

After passing the turnoff to the guided walks Pompolona Hut, there was a short climb before descending to cross a swing bridge. The vegetation started to change, reflecting the higher altitude and rainfall. After re-entering the bush it is approximately 40 minutes to Mintaro Hut.

When we arrived at Mintaro hut I dropped my large pack on my bunk bed and climbed up to Quinton Mackinnon pass. The plants changed considerably as we gained elevation. We saw some huge buttercup plants and many ferns. There was a pleasant perfume of flowers along the way. The top offered majestic views of mountaintops. We returned back to the hut for dinner and sleep. We hiked for 6 hours and went 16.5 km.

It was our third sunny day and the pass was spectacular. It was easier to climb the second time. From Mintaro Hut there is a well-graded, steady, zigzag climb of about two hours to the Mackinnon Memorial. On the way there we saw excellent views of Lake Mintaro and the Clinton Canyon. The highest point of the track was located at The Pass Day Shelter (1069 meters). The toilet with the best view in Fiordland is located near the shelter. A few clouds shrouded the peaks and a Kia bird was on the cliff. We were warned not to leave our packs unprotected or else the Kia might take a look to see if there are any treats in it for them.

The path down was long and tiring. The 8 km walk from the pass to the Dumpling Hut drops 970 meters steadily over rocky, uneven terrain and provides spectacular views. This was the most difficult part of the track. Donna took the large pack most of the time because my legs couldn't stand it anymore. We saw an awesome waterfall that landed in blue pools and some lush rainforest. The Moraine Creek Bridge, the first bridge crossed on the descent, is approximately a third of the way down to Quintin Hut turnoff. Shortly after, the track follows the river, on which there are several waterfalls. This section of the track had a new wooden boardwalk and staircases on the way to Roaring Burn swing bridge. The track then continued to follow the river, with the Dudleigh Falls located about two thirds of the way down. A set of rocky and uneven zigzags leads to the bottom of the hill.

We stowed our things in an old hut, the Quintin Public Shelter, and went on a side trip to Sutherland Falls. We wore our swimsuits and walked under the falls. The water was freezing cold. After our dip in the water, I was so exhausted I didn't know if I was going to make it to the next hut. From the shelter it was about an hours walk to Dumpling Hut. We saw an excellent view of the Sutherland Falls behind us as we dragged ourselves onward. We were the last ones back. After eating dinner I just went to sleep. We hiked for 8 hours, and went 14 km.

We rushed out early of the cabin early to catch the 2 pm boat at Sandfly Point. It was a rainy day. We ate as we walked. The track gently descended, following the Arthur River to the historic Boatshed where we crossed over on a swing bridge. Then we followed along the shores of Lake Ada. We saw Mackay Falls and Bell Rock, an intriguing rock, which has been worn by water and grinding stones and then tipped over in a rock fall. An hour further on the track we crossed two suspension bridges at Poseidon Creek. The rock cuttings alongside the Arthur River and around Lake Ada were blasted out by prison gangs and contracted work parties in the late 19th century. About an hour later were the Giant Gate Falls. It was a roaring waterfall. The rain didn't dampen our experience, but did make our socks soggy. We used plastic covers over our packs.

The sand flies where very thick at the boat dock. Any exposed area of skin was quickly covered with sand flies. According to Maori legend, the goddess Te Hine-nui-te-po released the sandfly to stop men lingering too long in the beauty of Fiordland. We waited in a screened building. The boat crossing took approximately 20 minutes to Milford Sound. When we arrived in town, I got a hot meat pie at the Milford Cafe. We hiked for 6 hours and went 18 km.

That afternoon we boarded the Milford Wanderer, for an overnight cruise through the Milford Sound.

The Milford Sound is the northernmost fiord in Fiordland National Park and is, without a doubt, the most dramatic.

We cruised the full length of Milford Sound to the Tasman Sea, passing cascading waterfalls, luxuriant forests and the towering pinnacle of Mitre Peak rising one full mile into the sky.

We saw fur seals basking on the rocks. A passenger onboard volunteered to hold a cup off the port bow under a waterfall as the boat eased into it and filled it up with water. We had a relaxing time and even went exploring in kayaks near the Tasman Sea and I saw a fishing trawler return from a days work at sea. As the night began to fall the Milford Wanderer returned under sail to Harrison Cove for the night. We enjoyed a delicious meal in the boat's saloon. We met David and Melissa from Perth that evening. They shared a bunk room with us.